The item came into our inventory because the heater wasn't working and it was cold.
I'll diagnose it right away.
The heat source of the heater is cooling water.
First, check if there is coolant in the tank.
Coolant sub tank empty!
There is a cooling water leak from the thermostat.
The water pump seems fine.
Both are standard on this engine.
First of all, the thermostat needs to be replaced.
It came off.
If you look closely, you can see that the water temperature sensor is in a different position.
Because the parts have undergone repeated changes and countermeasures depending on the model year,
The layout has changed.
Therefore, an extension harness is set up.
that? Not included in the parts.
I have no choice but to extend it. (Later covered)
We are doing the same thing.
Bleed out the air and the work is complete! However,
Even though the water temperature has risen, the effectiveness of the heater is still weak.
This is a double punch!
Let's look for another cause.
There seems to be no problem with the air mix flap control.
Check pipe temperature directly.
The temperature on the outlet side is lower than that on the inlet side.
It is confirmed that the heater core is clogged.
If the flow of water is poor due to a blockage, a temperature difference will occur.
First, drain the cooling water from the engine bay side using air blow.
This will prevent coolant from flowing into the car.
It looks like it's packed and rusty.
When I blow air on it and inspect it, I can clearly see the difference in clogging compared to a new one.
The work is now complete by replacing the heater core.
The water temperature and heating effect are perfect.
To replace the heater core, first remove the dashboard.
In many cases, it cannot be removed without accessing the heater case.
I'm very grateful for a car that can be taken out from the side like this.